After a long reprieve...

Faithful followers of my blog,

I am relieved and saddened to say that my semester in the Middle East is over. The last 2 papers - on how to diagnose and solve the Arab-Israeli conflict (ha!) - were handed in Friday, leading towards these awkward 5 days of sitting around. It really is strange to enter a time in which I am obligated to do absolutely nothing, after the almost hellish 2 weeks of endless paper writing. Alas, I have found ways to occupy my time. Yesterday, I went and visited my host family one last time, to say our goodbyes. I also have found the time to read, watch the Office, walk around town... all those things I love to do but just never found the time to do so in the midst of academic crunch.

It hardly seems real that my time in Egypt has come to a close. I realize there is so much to look back and reflect upon, from time spent hand-in-hand with my Egyptian friend to visits of the Western Wall and Temple Mount. Never could I have expected to see so much in one block of time. What I learned about Islam, politics in the region, and Arabic was great, but the even greater measure of my time here is what I learned about myself. And that is yet to be determined. Last weekend, on a quick 2-day retreat, we discussed the challenges of re-entry to America. One of the problems lies in determining what to do with the loads upon loads of information that has been thrown upon us. What role do I play, in the United States, in effecting change in United States' policy towards Israel, which I now perceive to be a blatantly unfair amount in billions directed towards maintaining a military which arguably contributes most to the Middle East feud? How do I trigger the awareness of others about the true plight of Palestinians, an image that is not only of suicide bombings and rocket attacks? Further, I find myself thinking about the personal changes that must take effect in order for me to maintain a consistent position on these issues. I have yet to find the proper answers.

OK... awkward transition to 3 days ahead, when I will be in glorious Germany with my lovely fiance! It would be an understatement to say I'm excited about these 8 days that I get to spend reuniting and sharing with Court. We both happened to have flight connections in Frankfurt, per our programs' flight iteneraries, so we thought there would be no better way to conclude our semester than to meet each other and hang in Germany. So we will be departing on the 15th for Heidelberg, followed by Munich, Nuremberg, and Berlin (+ one other city that I now forget). Everything's kinda tentative, so if anyone has any suggestions or must-sees, let me know!

Salaam,

Tony

Happy Thanksgiving!

Hello all! I hope your Thanksgiving is filled with family, football, and... falafel??? Yes, indeed I did eat falafel on Thanksgiving, I'm sure to the surprise of my family who might describe my eating habits as quite carnivourious (if that is such a word).

My Thanksgiving was also spent traversing through the area of the Galilee of Israel, checking out many of the historical sites that Jesus conducted his ministry in. One of the highlights was at Nazareth, at the famous Church of the Annunication. An absolutely beautiful church in a very controversial area. As I went into the area of the Grotto (believed to be Mary's home), and witnessed the icons, I can't help but think of the amazing day when Mary was announced in this very spot that she would give birth to a son who would become the most famous person in the world... a Savior from the womb of a virgin.

Today we also went to the Golan Heights, the modern name for the land of Caesarea Phillipi. Formally Syrian land, we studied the historical elements that led to Israel's grasping of the land in 1967 and the ensuing fights. While driving around these parts, we actually came across a military exercise, with over 30 military tanks. Our tour guide commented, "let's pull over and take a look." For sure, I thought he was joking, but sure enough we pulled over and snapped pictures of the Israeli forces in action... for practice of course.

Lastly, I never would have expected it, but I got my requisite Thanksgiving turkey, albeit in the form of schwarma, a delicious Middle Eastern sandwich with lamb, turkey, or chicken smeared with hummus, tomatoes, onions and other tasty sauces. Absolutely delicious, almost to rival, but not quite, the wonderful feast of turkey and mashed potatoes!

So many other experiences I wish to share, including our meeting with Palestinian and Israeli youth, but I cannot possibly express them in the time I have now. I definitely do not have the talent of expressing my words in an eloquent matter, and as I continue to wear down emotionally and physically, I have felt even greater hindrance. So I really am excited to share with you when I get back home!

Salaam,

Tony

The Testing of Preconceptions

I had quite the eventful day in Jerusalem, today. It began this morning, where I heard from a dynamic speaker, who came from the organization "Rabbis for Human Rights." Ya know when you find talk with a person who does not fit at all into the neat little categories of behavior and thought you had set up based on their culture and religion? That's what happened here, when I heard Michael Schwartz discuss the tricky issue of human rights from a Jewish perspective. After hearing speakers talk about the atrocities, which are sheer injustices in my opinion, perpetrated against the Palestinians in the West Bank, Gaza, and here in East Jerusalem, I found a certain frustration, somewhat attributed to ignorance I now find, with the larger Jewish community for not addressing such issues. Yet the actions of these few brave and noble Rabbis, such as Rabbi Schwartz, who fight against injustice in a myriad of ways, brought nuance to the situation. It allowed me to see beyond what I had first concluded about how Israeli/Palestinian relations were viewed from the Jewish standpoint. This everyday correcting of mine own ignorance, I continue to find, is what I am here for.

Also today, I made a trek to the requisite Holocaust Historical Museum. It is a very modern museum, complete with videos, pictures, and graphic descriptions of the Jewish plight during Hitler's reign. A very eye-opening experience. Because I had seen the Holocaust Museum in DC before, I was much aware of the atrocious history of the mass extermination of Jews. But seeing it here in the heart of Jewish identity brought an added dimension. Also, as I wandered through, I came across countless soldiers... people my age or less, who were required to put in 2 years of military service. The magnitude of their presence could not be missed: it was considered essential for them see the history of what their people went through to fully appreciation the standing of their nation and the presence of their state. Regardless of my own opinion about rampant militarism in this town and in this country, this served as a profound example of what it takes to create (or impose) freedom for the Jews in Israel.

Speaking of the military, I do not exaggerate when I say that they run rampant. Both male and female military officers roam the streets with authority in their aura, freely swinging their humongous guns that I do not know of (M-16s or something? I'm quite ignorant when it comes to guns).

I must say that I am frightened (or at least I feign frightedness) of these military fellows and fellowetes due to my first encounter with one at the border, where I was grilled about my phone numbers, my father and grandfather's names, and my purpose for being here. They did not like that I came from Syria, and they did not appreciate my father's middle name. Thankfully, after going into the backroom and conversing for ten or so minutes, they came back with the verdict that I was alright to pass. One more tragedy averted!

Anyways, I am tired and am need of rest! I hope to keep the updates from Jerusalem semi-regular!

Salaam,

Tony

The Majesty of the Holy City

I arrived today in the country of Israel, a confusing and utterly incoherent place complete with drama, war, and strife of all kinds. Nothing could have prepared me for today, where I was tossed into the East Jerusalem, the very heart of the Old City, where passions have been tossed wildly since the creation of religion. Of course, with all 3 major monotheistic religions represented, one would expect confusion to prevail. Yet when one adds on top of this a fight for precious holy land and the igniting forces of militarism and terroism, I see the city of Jerusalem as the best ever political and sociological study of the Middle East possible. At the same time, a holy aura prevails, bringing to the forefront a deep spirituality that seems inherent within these countless cathedrals, mosques, churches, and monumnents that dot the landscape of the beautiful Jerusalem.

I am staying in the Arab quarter of the Old City of Jerusalem, a section quickly noticeable by the presence of the Dome of the Rock. The hostel we are staying at for the majority of the time, the Austrian Hospice, presents a terrific view of the entire city of East Jerusalem from its roof, and it is a favorite destination for tourists who dare set foot in the Arab quarter. Ironically, on the point of security, it is much better than in the more modern western part of Jerusalem due to the subtle deterrent served by the holy sites. Everyone here seems to know that destruction of deeply revered and historical sites would bring about a war that no one is asking for.

Anyways, just checking in with everyone after a long time away. Thanks to everyone for all your continued prayers and notes of encouragement!

Salaam,

Tony

From Istanbul...

Greetings from Istanbul, Turkey!

I managed to get some time in a quaint little internet cafe today, where I am able to experience a brief reprive from the last few days. We arrived in this grand city of Turkey on November 1, and were immediately greeted by culture shock. Though Turkey is 99.9% Muslim, an interesting phenomenon centers on the unique secular government which Ataturk instituted about 80 years ago. Thus far, we have had amazing opportunities to talk with students, professors, locals, and even a religious editorial writer for a local newspaper about what creates this interesting mix called Turkey.

The highlight, by far, came on Friday, when we talked with a group of students from Koc University, widely considered by many the "Harvard" of Turkey. The meeting had been set up by members of their International Relations club, so it was academically stimulating to be able to talk with a group of people who were extremely knowledgable about both Turkish foreign and internal affairs. Many of them are disturbed by the current state of affairs here in Turkey, primarily concerning the issue of the Kurdish terroist group PKK, of which you may have heard about in the media recently. They spoke about their adoration for Turkey's founder and cult figure Ataturk, who in a land of growing Islamism, is still greatly admired by the population. One only need walk down the streets and see countless pictures of Ataturk, by himself or interposed on a Turkish flag. Speaking of flags, they run rampant here. Nationalism is out of hand!! Everywhere you turn, you'll find the lovely red and yellow... very nice, yes, but quite repetitive!

Anyways, you may have also heard of Rice's recent visit to Istanbul. Pretty neat, considering, ya know, I'm in the same city and all. As we took the bus trip to Koc university, we actually passed the hotel she was staying in. Needless to say, it was greatly fortified.

So much political and cultural intrigue here, but little time to share. I also must include a note on the just plain gorgeousness of this country. Comparatively, to Cairo with all its coughy air, Istanbul is a mecca of cleanliness. Situated on the Bosporous, Istanbul provides a great gateway to both Asia and Europe, as it serves as the dividing point (part of Istanbul lies in Asia, part in Europe). Our hotel provides a convenient outlet to all the great sites. We're a freaking 10 minute walk away from the Hagia Sophia, which was the largest cathedral in the world for nearly 1,000 years! Today, we also the palace which served as the administrative center of the Ottoman Empire. Quite the impressive place!

That's all for now. Have a great weekend!

Salaam,

Tony

I'm Still Alive

Wow... it has been ages! Hello everybody! Just to let you know, I am alive and well. The reason I have not been able to update, unfortunately, is mostly due to the tremendous academic load that has been placed upon us. With half the semester' s papers complete, I set out tomorrow for Istanbul, Turkey, a jumping point for one month of travel across the Middle East. Our group travels from Turkey, through Syria and Jordan, to Israel and Palestine, and back to Egypt. I'm looking forward especially towards this first leg in Turkey. If you have heard news about Iraq recently, you might also have heard Turkey's increasing frustration with the state of affairs. I hope to be able to delve into some of the big issues here.

Of course, two weeks in Jerusalem will be phenomenal as well. I find myself at this point responded to what lies ahead of me the same way I responded the day I heard of my acceptance to the program. I can barely believe that I, a 20 (almost 21) year old punk (as my mother would say) who surely does not understand, and cannot possibly understand, the deep significance and historical richness of what I am about to encounter. My prayer is that God will humble my heart, and open my eyes to a world I have no idea about. A world that is full of injustice and justice, love and hatred, sorrow and joy: all real emotions that play a real role in the conflict of Israel and Palestine today.

On my journey, I hope to communicate in some way, via connection at internet cafes. This, I certainly cannot guarantee! I think you've become quite used to my lazy posting anyways. I'm really sorry that I cannot post more frequently. I promise a raincheck valid upon my return!

Salaam,

Tony

The joys of the West?

Today was a day of pressure, and it was a day of release. I completed my Islamic Thought and Practice class, with a climatic 2-hour essay final. I could not have expected to learn as much as I did, but our class was blessed by a wonderful professor, Dr. Chahinda Karim, from American University of Cairo, who spoke rather eloquently and at length about the Islamic religion. Though I realize there to be so much more to learn about Islam as a religion, many misconceptions about the religion have been debunked. Foremost amongst these misunderstandings was Islamic teaching on jihad. As part of the final week of Islam class, I turned in a paper focusing on some verses about Christians and Jews in the quran. For this paper, I focused partially on such verses as are listed in the quran about treatment of Christians and Jews, which applied to the historical context at the time, and compared these with certain directives issued in Deuteronomy. The similarities were astonishing...

Anyways, off the soapbox, I find the remainder of this week to be a brief interlude for the onslaught of busy-ness that is to come. Tomorrow evening, I depart for Aswan, by train, for a Nile Cruise up to Luxor. All the touristy sights I could care less about in comparison with the time of relaxation I will get on the boat deck! Sipping a mango juice, relaxing in shorts... wow, life will be grand!

A couple days ago, I met up with a random friend I made on Skype (by the way... if you're interested, I am "tcalero" on Skype!). He was an 18-year old Egyptian who told me he'd show the "real Cairo." As we departed, I couldn't help but soon realize the way in which he cared about catering to me and making me happy in every which way he could. Instead of taking me through and introducing me to his friends in his middle-class neighborhood, he felt it necessary, (I'm sure out of his thoughts about what I would like) to take me to the glitzy and glamourous mall, of which I cared not to visit whilst here in Cairo. As we went past each shop, he asked if we had the same store in America. Most times, I could say yes. As I asked him why he wished to show me all the "Western" spots that I could normally find back home, he looked at me inquisitively, not understanding where such a question could arise from.

It then it hit me. Going to the mall, in his mind, was an act that was fully Egyptian. Instead of separation between the "Western" and "Egyptian", everything in this mall I saw as "Western" was not that, it was fully "Egyptian" as well. I've always been one to hesitate about trampling on cultural tradition, as I initially perceived this mall to do with all its Westernization. Yet the subtle arrogance of my gut reaction hit me hard. I come to Egypt so that I can see what? Get away from the West? Yes, and more. I come to see what life is for Egyptians: to see what becomes their livelihood, to see what makes them happy, what makes them thrive. It would be cheap of me to say that I prefer seeing my friend in an "authentic" Egyptian culture, if he truly longs to take part and share in such Western culture. Of course, the real danger comes in imposing Western culture, which is a discussion in and of itself - something I am still vehemently against. But seeing such a Western-loving Egyptian gave new insight: that Western culture is admired and looked up to here, yes. But also that it is OK for me, a Westerner, to be OK with that. My first instinct, most times I see western stuff, is to jump to the idea of imperialism. I must learn otherwise.

I realize that I turn you into the receptacle, sometimes, of my inner thoughts. I have never, and will probably never will be, a disciplined journaler. Thus I consider this public blog as such medium for my mind ramblings. Thank you for tolerating them.

Lastly, I feel it necessary sometimes to be an advocate. I feel forced into this position, because of what I see to be baseless ill depiction of the Islamic religion. Sometimes I am forwarded, what I see to be, absolutely ridiculous derisions of Islam, that are based not whatsoever on good sound analysis of the Quran and Hadith, but rather on scoring a cheap point for advancing one's agenda. If you are interested in getting past the platitude sayings of "Islam is a religion of peace" or "Muslims seek to kill all the infidels," you will find this article interesting! Here is the link: http://www.islamonline.net/english/Quran/2005/04/article01.shtml.

Any comments would be greatly appreciated, in approval or disapproval of said article.

Salaam,

Tony