After a long reprieve...

Faithful followers of my blog,

I am relieved and saddened to say that my semester in the Middle East is over. The last 2 papers - on how to diagnose and solve the Arab-Israeli conflict (ha!) - were handed in Friday, leading towards these awkward 5 days of sitting around. It really is strange to enter a time in which I am obligated to do absolutely nothing, after the almost hellish 2 weeks of endless paper writing. Alas, I have found ways to occupy my time. Yesterday, I went and visited my host family one last time, to say our goodbyes. I also have found the time to read, watch the Office, walk around town... all those things I love to do but just never found the time to do so in the midst of academic crunch.

It hardly seems real that my time in Egypt has come to a close. I realize there is so much to look back and reflect upon, from time spent hand-in-hand with my Egyptian friend to visits of the Western Wall and Temple Mount. Never could I have expected to see so much in one block of time. What I learned about Islam, politics in the region, and Arabic was great, but the even greater measure of my time here is what I learned about myself. And that is yet to be determined. Last weekend, on a quick 2-day retreat, we discussed the challenges of re-entry to America. One of the problems lies in determining what to do with the loads upon loads of information that has been thrown upon us. What role do I play, in the United States, in effecting change in United States' policy towards Israel, which I now perceive to be a blatantly unfair amount in billions directed towards maintaining a military which arguably contributes most to the Middle East feud? How do I trigger the awareness of others about the true plight of Palestinians, an image that is not only of suicide bombings and rocket attacks? Further, I find myself thinking about the personal changes that must take effect in order for me to maintain a consistent position on these issues. I have yet to find the proper answers.

OK... awkward transition to 3 days ahead, when I will be in glorious Germany with my lovely fiance! It would be an understatement to say I'm excited about these 8 days that I get to spend reuniting and sharing with Court. We both happened to have flight connections in Frankfurt, per our programs' flight iteneraries, so we thought there would be no better way to conclude our semester than to meet each other and hang in Germany. So we will be departing on the 15th for Heidelberg, followed by Munich, Nuremberg, and Berlin (+ one other city that I now forget). Everything's kinda tentative, so if anyone has any suggestions or must-sees, let me know!

Salaam,

Tony

Happy Thanksgiving!

Hello all! I hope your Thanksgiving is filled with family, football, and... falafel??? Yes, indeed I did eat falafel on Thanksgiving, I'm sure to the surprise of my family who might describe my eating habits as quite carnivourious (if that is such a word).

My Thanksgiving was also spent traversing through the area of the Galilee of Israel, checking out many of the historical sites that Jesus conducted his ministry in. One of the highlights was at Nazareth, at the famous Church of the Annunication. An absolutely beautiful church in a very controversial area. As I went into the area of the Grotto (believed to be Mary's home), and witnessed the icons, I can't help but think of the amazing day when Mary was announced in this very spot that she would give birth to a son who would become the most famous person in the world... a Savior from the womb of a virgin.

Today we also went to the Golan Heights, the modern name for the land of Caesarea Phillipi. Formally Syrian land, we studied the historical elements that led to Israel's grasping of the land in 1967 and the ensuing fights. While driving around these parts, we actually came across a military exercise, with over 30 military tanks. Our tour guide commented, "let's pull over and take a look." For sure, I thought he was joking, but sure enough we pulled over and snapped pictures of the Israeli forces in action... for practice of course.

Lastly, I never would have expected it, but I got my requisite Thanksgiving turkey, albeit in the form of schwarma, a delicious Middle Eastern sandwich with lamb, turkey, or chicken smeared with hummus, tomatoes, onions and other tasty sauces. Absolutely delicious, almost to rival, but not quite, the wonderful feast of turkey and mashed potatoes!

So many other experiences I wish to share, including our meeting with Palestinian and Israeli youth, but I cannot possibly express them in the time I have now. I definitely do not have the talent of expressing my words in an eloquent matter, and as I continue to wear down emotionally and physically, I have felt even greater hindrance. So I really am excited to share with you when I get back home!

Salaam,

Tony

The Testing of Preconceptions

I had quite the eventful day in Jerusalem, today. It began this morning, where I heard from a dynamic speaker, who came from the organization "Rabbis for Human Rights." Ya know when you find talk with a person who does not fit at all into the neat little categories of behavior and thought you had set up based on their culture and religion? That's what happened here, when I heard Michael Schwartz discuss the tricky issue of human rights from a Jewish perspective. After hearing speakers talk about the atrocities, which are sheer injustices in my opinion, perpetrated against the Palestinians in the West Bank, Gaza, and here in East Jerusalem, I found a certain frustration, somewhat attributed to ignorance I now find, with the larger Jewish community for not addressing such issues. Yet the actions of these few brave and noble Rabbis, such as Rabbi Schwartz, who fight against injustice in a myriad of ways, brought nuance to the situation. It allowed me to see beyond what I had first concluded about how Israeli/Palestinian relations were viewed from the Jewish standpoint. This everyday correcting of mine own ignorance, I continue to find, is what I am here for.

Also today, I made a trek to the requisite Holocaust Historical Museum. It is a very modern museum, complete with videos, pictures, and graphic descriptions of the Jewish plight during Hitler's reign. A very eye-opening experience. Because I had seen the Holocaust Museum in DC before, I was much aware of the atrocious history of the mass extermination of Jews. But seeing it here in the heart of Jewish identity brought an added dimension. Also, as I wandered through, I came across countless soldiers... people my age or less, who were required to put in 2 years of military service. The magnitude of their presence could not be missed: it was considered essential for them see the history of what their people went through to fully appreciation the standing of their nation and the presence of their state. Regardless of my own opinion about rampant militarism in this town and in this country, this served as a profound example of what it takes to create (or impose) freedom for the Jews in Israel.

Speaking of the military, I do not exaggerate when I say that they run rampant. Both male and female military officers roam the streets with authority in their aura, freely swinging their humongous guns that I do not know of (M-16s or something? I'm quite ignorant when it comes to guns).

I must say that I am frightened (or at least I feign frightedness) of these military fellows and fellowetes due to my first encounter with one at the border, where I was grilled about my phone numbers, my father and grandfather's names, and my purpose for being here. They did not like that I came from Syria, and they did not appreciate my father's middle name. Thankfully, after going into the backroom and conversing for ten or so minutes, they came back with the verdict that I was alright to pass. One more tragedy averted!

Anyways, I am tired and am need of rest! I hope to keep the updates from Jerusalem semi-regular!

Salaam,

Tony

The Majesty of the Holy City

I arrived today in the country of Israel, a confusing and utterly incoherent place complete with drama, war, and strife of all kinds. Nothing could have prepared me for today, where I was tossed into the East Jerusalem, the very heart of the Old City, where passions have been tossed wildly since the creation of religion. Of course, with all 3 major monotheistic religions represented, one would expect confusion to prevail. Yet when one adds on top of this a fight for precious holy land and the igniting forces of militarism and terroism, I see the city of Jerusalem as the best ever political and sociological study of the Middle East possible. At the same time, a holy aura prevails, bringing to the forefront a deep spirituality that seems inherent within these countless cathedrals, mosques, churches, and monumnents that dot the landscape of the beautiful Jerusalem.

I am staying in the Arab quarter of the Old City of Jerusalem, a section quickly noticeable by the presence of the Dome of the Rock. The hostel we are staying at for the majority of the time, the Austrian Hospice, presents a terrific view of the entire city of East Jerusalem from its roof, and it is a favorite destination for tourists who dare set foot in the Arab quarter. Ironically, on the point of security, it is much better than in the more modern western part of Jerusalem due to the subtle deterrent served by the holy sites. Everyone here seems to know that destruction of deeply revered and historical sites would bring about a war that no one is asking for.

Anyways, just checking in with everyone after a long time away. Thanks to everyone for all your continued prayers and notes of encouragement!

Salaam,

Tony

From Istanbul...

Greetings from Istanbul, Turkey!

I managed to get some time in a quaint little internet cafe today, where I am able to experience a brief reprive from the last few days. We arrived in this grand city of Turkey on November 1, and were immediately greeted by culture shock. Though Turkey is 99.9% Muslim, an interesting phenomenon centers on the unique secular government which Ataturk instituted about 80 years ago. Thus far, we have had amazing opportunities to talk with students, professors, locals, and even a religious editorial writer for a local newspaper about what creates this interesting mix called Turkey.

The highlight, by far, came on Friday, when we talked with a group of students from Koc University, widely considered by many the "Harvard" of Turkey. The meeting had been set up by members of their International Relations club, so it was academically stimulating to be able to talk with a group of people who were extremely knowledgable about both Turkish foreign and internal affairs. Many of them are disturbed by the current state of affairs here in Turkey, primarily concerning the issue of the Kurdish terroist group PKK, of which you may have heard about in the media recently. They spoke about their adoration for Turkey's founder and cult figure Ataturk, who in a land of growing Islamism, is still greatly admired by the population. One only need walk down the streets and see countless pictures of Ataturk, by himself or interposed on a Turkish flag. Speaking of flags, they run rampant here. Nationalism is out of hand!! Everywhere you turn, you'll find the lovely red and yellow... very nice, yes, but quite repetitive!

Anyways, you may have also heard of Rice's recent visit to Istanbul. Pretty neat, considering, ya know, I'm in the same city and all. As we took the bus trip to Koc university, we actually passed the hotel she was staying in. Needless to say, it was greatly fortified.

So much political and cultural intrigue here, but little time to share. I also must include a note on the just plain gorgeousness of this country. Comparatively, to Cairo with all its coughy air, Istanbul is a mecca of cleanliness. Situated on the Bosporous, Istanbul provides a great gateway to both Asia and Europe, as it serves as the dividing point (part of Istanbul lies in Asia, part in Europe). Our hotel provides a convenient outlet to all the great sites. We're a freaking 10 minute walk away from the Hagia Sophia, which was the largest cathedral in the world for nearly 1,000 years! Today, we also the palace which served as the administrative center of the Ottoman Empire. Quite the impressive place!

That's all for now. Have a great weekend!

Salaam,

Tony

I'm Still Alive

Wow... it has been ages! Hello everybody! Just to let you know, I am alive and well. The reason I have not been able to update, unfortunately, is mostly due to the tremendous academic load that has been placed upon us. With half the semester' s papers complete, I set out tomorrow for Istanbul, Turkey, a jumping point for one month of travel across the Middle East. Our group travels from Turkey, through Syria and Jordan, to Israel and Palestine, and back to Egypt. I'm looking forward especially towards this first leg in Turkey. If you have heard news about Iraq recently, you might also have heard Turkey's increasing frustration with the state of affairs. I hope to be able to delve into some of the big issues here.

Of course, two weeks in Jerusalem will be phenomenal as well. I find myself at this point responded to what lies ahead of me the same way I responded the day I heard of my acceptance to the program. I can barely believe that I, a 20 (almost 21) year old punk (as my mother would say) who surely does not understand, and cannot possibly understand, the deep significance and historical richness of what I am about to encounter. My prayer is that God will humble my heart, and open my eyes to a world I have no idea about. A world that is full of injustice and justice, love and hatred, sorrow and joy: all real emotions that play a real role in the conflict of Israel and Palestine today.

On my journey, I hope to communicate in some way, via connection at internet cafes. This, I certainly cannot guarantee! I think you've become quite used to my lazy posting anyways. I'm really sorry that I cannot post more frequently. I promise a raincheck valid upon my return!

Salaam,

Tony

The joys of the West?

Today was a day of pressure, and it was a day of release. I completed my Islamic Thought and Practice class, with a climatic 2-hour essay final. I could not have expected to learn as much as I did, but our class was blessed by a wonderful professor, Dr. Chahinda Karim, from American University of Cairo, who spoke rather eloquently and at length about the Islamic religion. Though I realize there to be so much more to learn about Islam as a religion, many misconceptions about the religion have been debunked. Foremost amongst these misunderstandings was Islamic teaching on jihad. As part of the final week of Islam class, I turned in a paper focusing on some verses about Christians and Jews in the quran. For this paper, I focused partially on such verses as are listed in the quran about treatment of Christians and Jews, which applied to the historical context at the time, and compared these with certain directives issued in Deuteronomy. The similarities were astonishing...

Anyways, off the soapbox, I find the remainder of this week to be a brief interlude for the onslaught of busy-ness that is to come. Tomorrow evening, I depart for Aswan, by train, for a Nile Cruise up to Luxor. All the touristy sights I could care less about in comparison with the time of relaxation I will get on the boat deck! Sipping a mango juice, relaxing in shorts... wow, life will be grand!

A couple days ago, I met up with a random friend I made on Skype (by the way... if you're interested, I am "tcalero" on Skype!). He was an 18-year old Egyptian who told me he'd show the "real Cairo." As we departed, I couldn't help but soon realize the way in which he cared about catering to me and making me happy in every which way he could. Instead of taking me through and introducing me to his friends in his middle-class neighborhood, he felt it necessary, (I'm sure out of his thoughts about what I would like) to take me to the glitzy and glamourous mall, of which I cared not to visit whilst here in Cairo. As we went past each shop, he asked if we had the same store in America. Most times, I could say yes. As I asked him why he wished to show me all the "Western" spots that I could normally find back home, he looked at me inquisitively, not understanding where such a question could arise from.

It then it hit me. Going to the mall, in his mind, was an act that was fully Egyptian. Instead of separation between the "Western" and "Egyptian", everything in this mall I saw as "Western" was not that, it was fully "Egyptian" as well. I've always been one to hesitate about trampling on cultural tradition, as I initially perceived this mall to do with all its Westernization. Yet the subtle arrogance of my gut reaction hit me hard. I come to Egypt so that I can see what? Get away from the West? Yes, and more. I come to see what life is for Egyptians: to see what becomes their livelihood, to see what makes them happy, what makes them thrive. It would be cheap of me to say that I prefer seeing my friend in an "authentic" Egyptian culture, if he truly longs to take part and share in such Western culture. Of course, the real danger comes in imposing Western culture, which is a discussion in and of itself - something I am still vehemently against. But seeing such a Western-loving Egyptian gave new insight: that Western culture is admired and looked up to here, yes. But also that it is OK for me, a Westerner, to be OK with that. My first instinct, most times I see western stuff, is to jump to the idea of imperialism. I must learn otherwise.

I realize that I turn you into the receptacle, sometimes, of my inner thoughts. I have never, and will probably never will be, a disciplined journaler. Thus I consider this public blog as such medium for my mind ramblings. Thank you for tolerating them.

Lastly, I feel it necessary sometimes to be an advocate. I feel forced into this position, because of what I see to be baseless ill depiction of the Islamic religion. Sometimes I am forwarded, what I see to be, absolutely ridiculous derisions of Islam, that are based not whatsoever on good sound analysis of the Quran and Hadith, but rather on scoring a cheap point for advancing one's agenda. If you are interested in getting past the platitude sayings of "Islam is a religion of peace" or "Muslims seek to kill all the infidels," you will find this article interesting! Here is the link: http://www.islamonline.net/english/Quran/2005/04/article01.shtml.

Any comments would be greatly appreciated, in approval or disapproval of said article.

Salaam,

Tony

Locked in Prison

This weekend, I hope to write about the past week at greater length, but for now, I will share a recent experience:

On Tuesday, I went to the prison to meet with my friends. I noticed something drastically different at the prison this time. As I made my way to the cramped, dark area where we all gather together to chat and share about our weeks, I noticed a rather large group - 100, at least - all kneeling together in the cement ground. What are they all doing? Were they taking a break in the basking sun to work on their tan, or were they under true distress? As I later talked to the prisoners I normally meet with, I found out their horrifying story. These men were all Eritrean refugees, whom had been stopped at the border or somewhere in Egypt on account of illegal immigration. I was alerted to find out that violence in Eritrea had reached such a point where families had no other option but to flee. Noticeable amongst this group of kneeling men, whom I could see from my vantage point inside the waiting area, was that their faces showed the hardened and tragic pain of separation, for in their imprisoning they were separated from their families. Here there were men of all ages - from 15 to 75, according to a prisoner friend. They were keeling in solidarity, in the hope that things would change for they knew what was to come...

This would be the day the refugees were forced out of the plush accomodations of Kanater (which can hardly be considered humane, but this is comparatively speaking) anymore, for were transport to a prison near Alexandria - known for crowded conditions, and torturous army soldiers. The men were refusing to load into the trucks that would transport them there, for they knew that their stories... and their lives would soon be lost in a sea of anonymity. Their cries were for help, for justice, for someone to recognize what was to soon ensue. As a man from Pakistan told me, when all the Western visitors had cleared out, there was a group of 200 riot police beyond the walls, waiting to come in with batons and gas - scattering the Eritreans and forcing them into the trucks for their voyage to a slow and sickening exisitence. We could only look on in helplessness for there was nothing we could do to intervene. Their only hope, according to some, was action by the United Nations. I ask for your prayers in this. Please also pray for the ceasing of human rights violations in this area, particularly in the prisons where corruption runs rampant. In addition to the UN's role, we always must remember the only One who can ultimately intervene on the refugee's behalf, and that is our Father...

I am continually fascinated by the Africans' persistence and drive against the overwhelming racist undertones. Here in Egypt, racism is a huge problem, admitted to by many Egyptians I have talked with. For sure, this is one of the causes of such a huge roundup - dividing families, and leaving women and children on their own in a strange land. Today, I got to see the unique service of African Christians, in a town called Mahdi. Though the city consists of many ex-pats, and thus is a wealthier area, a group of 200 or so Africans gather together every Friday afternoon for a worship service. I went with four others to participate. The groove produced by the music and singing is absolutely contagious, and I found myself shaking my hips more than I ever have in church before. They had a guest preacher, Charles Price, who spoke about the ways in which our mustard-seed faith can "move the mountains" and shake the corrupt patterns of this world. It all came together for me: God is a God of justice. What was happening to those refugees was absolutely unjust. Faith that God can change the situation is absolutely essential, for with faith in something higher I then realize that I cannot do it myself. Worldly powers cannot do it either. Only Him...

Salaam from Cairo,

Tony

My relaxing weekend at home

This weekend, whilst the rest of the crew headed to the faraway oasis of Siwa, in the Western Desert, I settled in for a weekend in which I anticipated lots of rest and progress on my ever-building work load. I succeded on only one account. I felt that being lazy, and reflecting upon the previous month took precedent. It worked, for I now feel much rejuvenated. Fortunately, we only have 3 more weeks of Arabic, a language I absolutely cannot figure out, before heading on our travel component of the semester. Ilhamdulilah (thanks be to Allah!), as they would say here!

Yesterday I went to al-Azhar park, a beautifully constructed huge area of green on a land that used to be, essentially, a garbage dump. There is a vantage point towards the very top of a hill at the park that was a great spot to view the magnificant sunset. The contrast between the lush green areas of the park, and the neighborhood nearby that had no roads and very little infrastructure, was quite stark. Another example of the ridiculous amounts of poverty that riddle this area.

Tonight, a rather special opportunity arose - to see a soccer game at Cairo Stadium, which holds something like 70,000 folk. It's a semifinal round game for the African Cup, so the place should be hopping. I have a large Egyptian flag ready to go, to join the masses in cheering Egypt to victory. According to most, it's easy street tonight, against Ghana, but stranger things have happened (i.e., Stanford over USC... holy cow!!!).

That's all for now. See... I kept this one pretty light!

Salaam,

Tony

Academic overload, and other stuff...

Ramadan kareem! A typical greeting used during this time of the year, it essentially means "may you have a bountiful Ramadan." Though I doubt I have a large Muslim readership, there is your bit of culture for the day!

So I found the reality of this program academic rigor hit me like a ton of bricks this week. I found myself concurrently working on 2 long papers, studying for a substantial Arabic test, and reading journals and other books in preparation for the travel component of this semester (I take off in about a month... going to Turkey, Syria, Jordan, Israel and Palestine). Not to complain, I find this stuff highly stimulating intellectually, as well as emotionally. The papers assigned so far have pushed me to the edge, however, in terms of wide abstract thought. Through all my years in school, I have never found myself thinking as critically about the important issues of life, and the underlying pinnings of society and religion as I do today. I find that there were some assumptions about religion that I held dear to me... I considered them as the very truth. Do I carefully reconsider these presuppostions? Absolutely. Is it easy? Absolutely not.

For example, the issue of "salvation boundaries" came up recently. This came as a result of Paul Gordon Chandler's talk on "Muslims who intimately know Jesus." In this very scenerio, on which I had to write a critical paper, in which I could not tow the fence (as oft is my position), I do question the validity of certain founders of Christianity, I do take issue with the selection of the canonical texts, and I do, most importantly, wonder in amazement at the possibility of a Muslim knowing Christ.

To tell the truth, this does not force me to descend into a spiritual or religious hole. This has happened to me before, and it is happening to those around me right now. I wish I could identify the reasons that this "crisis of faith" occurs. But this time, I have been reinvigorated to understand the mystique and awesomeness of Jesus. It allows me to access Christ from a new perspective, not shrouded by an American fog, nor tainted by those who wish to wrap and package the Gospel up for their purpose. I desire to know the Jesus of the Middle East more and more. I have learned that this is yet but a pilgrimage. I do not come to a point in which I know Him fully, as much as I would like to. I instead enter into a sense of the divine, once in awhile, where I can see his plans and purposes for my life. This is a continual walking, one that I have not or never will perfect. Being in the Middle East and seeing pilgrims who seek the very face of Jesus, and not some arcane, bullet-pointed, watered down, and pre-packaged Christianity, triggers action.

A recent neat and rather touching experience:

I go to prison every Tuesday. Not to stay there, but rather for this thing they call "prison ministry." But I can say for absolute certain that I'm not the one who's doing this ministering, rather I find myself being the one who is ministered to. When I go there, I always end up talking to someone who has a fascinating, but very heart shattering story of how they ended up there, and what they now do in their new home... the prison. Some occupy themselves by utilizing their various skills; for example, one guy from Russia makes different crafts, and he specializes in greeting cards. Others utilize their time reading from the Bible and praying individually and as a group. I found that these men know the Scripture in and out, and are able to recite particular passages on a dime. Yet this did not impress me as much as the fervor with which they talked about their Jesus. Despite their circumstances (quite horrid prison conditions, I might add), nothing could keep them away from seeking Christ. They imparted to me the absolute necessity of attempting to know him more and more everyday.

But what came at the end of our time together blew me away. Each time at prison, we gather around in a circle - there are around 15 of us between prisoners and visitors. Usually someone reads a favorite passage, we pray, and then we leave. This time, I was asked to share a Scripture and a mini-sermon. I was completely unprepared for this spur of the moment request. I also happen to be a terribly befuddled speaker in front of a large amount of folk. Nevertheless, I opened the Bible that was put in my hand to one of my favorite passages, from the book Phillipians 2:

"If you have any encouragement from being united with Christ, if any comfort from his love, if any fellowship with the Spirit, if any tenderness and compassion, then make my joy complete by being like-minded, having the same love, being one in spirit and purpose. Do nothing out of selfish ambition or vain conceit, but in humility consider others better than yourselves. Each of you should look not only to your own interests, but also to the interests of others.

Your attitude should be the same as that of Christ Jesus:
Who, being in very nature God,
did not consider equality with God something to be grasped,
but made himself nothing,
taking the very nature of a servant,
being made in human likeness.
And being found in appearance as a man,
he humbled himself
and became obedient to death—
even death on a cross!
Therefore God exalted him to the highest place
and gave him the name that is above every name,
that at the name of Jesus every knee should bow,
in heaven and on earth and under the earth,
and every tongue confess that Jesus Christ is Lord,
to the glory of God the Father."

I simply did not know what to say beyond this. That they would allow a Westerner to come in and read Scripture (who was much younger, with not near as much life experience) told me a lot about their humble character. It told me a lot about such an undeserved, incredible opportunity. It should have been them imparting the wisdom they had accrued over the years! All I could see around me was the most joyful and humble of all servants. To look into the eyes of my brothers in Christ and see this displayed meant the world to me at that point. I realized I have so far on this journey in aspiring to conform my attitude to the same of that as Jesus Christ.

I'm sorry. I never want this to be a forum for me to rant about this stuff, but somehow it always turns up that way. Next time I promise will be different...

Salaam,

Tony

The weekend has arrived...

Tonight is, for all purposes, a Friday night here in Agouza. Here, weekend falls on Friday and Saturday. Kinda strange, I thought. This led me to contemplate all the other peculiarities of the part of the world which I have already taken as normal, after only a month! Below, back in my nice and neat bulleted form, I elaborate on some of the just plain oddities of life in Egypt:

• Snack shops are located everywhere. And by this, I mean every single intersection of street and avenue you are destined to find some type of food shack selling things such as fruits grown along the Nile such as mango and banana, freshly cooked bread called aish (naturally whole-grain, no preservatives: delicious), and then the not-so-odd collection of classic junk food. During nightime the speeding taxis, the stream of faces, and all the open, busy shops create a beautiful mosaic with both an urban and neighborhood-type feel.
  
• People here are incredibly kind, accommodating, and quite full of laughter. I realize that these are all labels that Americans use freely for foreign folk, but I find no other way to describe this Egyptian spirit, that radiates throughout the land of Egypt.
  
• Though not particularly odd, I find it to be pretty cool that I'm only a 30 minute walk from the Nile River, and another 15 minutes or so from the very heart of downtown Cairo...
• Using the underground train system here is quite the breathless experience. One first finds himself clamoring in a large grouping that cannot possibly be called a line, in order to get one tiny ticket, which he inserts into a little turnstyle-thing , from which point he must rush past the opening and closing bars to arrive at the train platform. When the train comes, it's all man for himself, and if you're a woman, good luck trying to get into the "men's cars." Women have the front 2 cars reserved for themselves. On the upside, this is a quick and efficient way to get where one wants to go.

Notable amongst the events this past week was a meeting / get-together with some staff members from islamonline.net (which, apparently is the 2nd most visited website in the Islamic world behind al-Jazeera). We watched "Paradise Now" together, with 20 of them, from which there would be a detailed discussion afterwards. It was a very heavy movie zeroing in on the psychological progression behind two Palestinians in their decision to accept the "honor" of carrying out a suicide bombing Not only did it tell the story of these two men, but it also spoke to larger sociological and political issues that the Palestinians and Israelis have faced for years.

Speaking to a well-educated group of Egyptians afterwards proved to be beneficial in my understanding of where Middle Easterners are coming from in their identification with the nation of Palestine. They find themselves deeply resentful of the Israelis and their occupation - little difference is made between policy and people. Many of the staff members even went so far to say that suicide bombing is justified in certain cases (when aimed directly at the "oppresive" forces; namely, the military and the political leadership. However, one man commented that all Israelis were inherently oppressive, simply in their presence there). The four I spoke to all had college degrees, and for them to speak freely about suicide bombing, which is seen by most educated people as wrong and evil, is strongly indicative of a larger sentiment here. Identification with the Palestinian cause is very strong, and violence is seen as justified against oppression - however that may be defined.

Though I seek not to turn this into a long diatribe, I find myself learning to unlearn my old, accepted views of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict. All the causes I formally identified as keeping the fire burning in this conflict, I have grown to find are much more nuanced. The circular nature of this conflict hardly allows for the original causes anymore; now, the issue concentrates on how can the fiery passion on both sides - Zionism and Islamism - be quelled in order to enact a peaceful, 2-state solution, which is, obviously, the million dollar question. I wish I had answers...

That's all for now. Thanks for reading, as always!

Salaam,

Tony

Mount Sinai and Dahab...

Greetings, my friends!

Because the week has been so hectic - this seems to be a common theme - I have not had an opportune time to blog until today. Even so, everytime I write I almost feel guilty describing my experiences, for I can only give a brief overview through this medium. A blurb about this Pyramid, and that mountain; this guest speaker, and that meeting with al-Azhar, simply does not come close to encapsulating my actual feelings and thoughts about the event. I do look forward to the time in which I can sure with each one of you these stories through in a different way, for these times have produced many thoughts and feelings of which I would care to share, in a more personal setting.

Anyways, I must say that this past weekend at Mount Sinai and Dahab, both located in the Sinai Peninsela, was one of the most amazing times so far this semester. Here is the way our group went to Mount Sinai:

We timed our arrival at the base of the mountain for 2:00 in the morning (yes, AM!). This way, we were able to hike up the mountain guided by the moonlight, to arrive just before sunrise. It worked. As we arrived, to my surprise and slight dismay however, I deduced that everyone and their mother had come out at this time as well. From Russian to Chinese, Egyptian to Japanese, all came to climb the mountain, presumably with just the moon as their light. Wrong. They all brought flashlights! No good, for this happens to drown out the natural light for those less fortunate ones who are not blessed with artificial lights (i.e., me)! So that was a bit of a challenge: attempting to climb the 2285 meter mountain in the dark with little but the occasional flashlight glaring in my eye. I took on the darkness with all I had, and came out on top 3 hours later... minutes before the glorious sunrise. Of course, along the way, I was joined by what seemed like hundreds camels and their accompanying Beaudoins, left and right along the path. Just the way Moses did it!

Since I reached the top, I was expecting some sort of divine inspiration or something, but maybe not to the quite Moses received. As nothing suddenly came to my mind, I thought that perhaps I went up the wrong mountain. What if the actual mountain on which Moses received the 10 commandments was right beside me? All those historical geniuses must have gotten it wrong! The tradition was sorely mistaken! OK... so while nothing overtly inspirational hit me, I was still bombarded by God's glory up there. Surrounded by people of all nationalities, I actually found myself taken by this reality that all these people had some reason of significance for making the journey up this mount. Some were led by spiritual seeking, others for the historical significance. What better way to understand the uniting power of God's love than on top of a beautiful, majestic mountain at sunrise?

Upon the completing of sun's full rise, I decided to sleep. Surprisingly, thought I was on the hardest rock surface there was, I enjoyed the relaxation immensely. There was something serene and peaceful about crashing on the mount under the unadulterated rays. Around 8 or so, I began my decent, in a different direction than the original assent. This wasn't just any old climb down; rather, this was the mighty steep, 3,750 rock-step way down. Here the called it the "steps of penitence," but I like to rename it as the "steps that give insight into the real reason Moses tossed the tablets down the mountain," for they cannot possibly be relaxing and enjoyable for anybody, by any stretch of the imagination. Once downhill, I found myself rejoicing in the simple fact that I was still alive... those steps were that steep, especially for a weakling like myself! At 11 o'clock, St. Catherine's Monastery opened. As some of you may know, it holds the second largest collection of icons in the world, AND it has the original burning bush that caught Moses dead in his tracks! Unfortunately, the icon room was closed for "cleaning." Still, the sanctuary was unlike any I have seen. Quite stale, I must say, yet one could sense the holy aura. One of the doors leading into the sanctuary was left from the 11th century Abbasid dynasty. Simply amazing.

OK, so onto day 1, part 2. After the morning at Mount Sinai, we went on to Dahab for the afternoon and evening. Visiting both these places in the same day drew, in my mind, remarkable contrasts between physical and cultural areas. For one, Sinai is a mountain and Dahab is a beach. But it goes much further than this. Culture plays a huge role. This was exemplified to me by the issue of dress. In traditional Bedouin areas (and Cairo, I might add), it is culturally inapprpriate to wear shorts. We can see this norm all across Egypt. Dahab proved to be an anomaly. It has this odd mixture of Arabic traditions with Caribbean-like flare. Shorts are allowed, and everyone is laid-back. I appreciated this after a long run of 3 weeks of no pants, very strange and uncomfortable in 90-degree heat.

Swimming was gorgeous in the Red Sea, and snorkeling was even better. Dahab, I heard, was rated no. 2 in the world for snorkelling, and it did not disappoint. The wondrous variety of coral and the countless number of large and colorful fish I have not seen on in the waters of Mexico and Caribbean. I only wish I could have stayed longer in the relaxing pattern of Dahab. Back to the grind...

Wow, I'm totally kidding about that. Life here is still filled with wondrous delights. Yesterday, I heard from a very controversial speaker named Paul Gordon Chandler from the local Episcopelian dioscese. In sum, he spoke about how it is possible for a Muslim to accept Jesus and retain all the cultural traditions of Islam. You might see how his confluence of Christianity's Savior and Islam's ways of life could make sparks fly. I will withhold comment now. I feel like it's the only respectful thing to do, for though his argument held good sense, and aligned quite well with my understanding of Jesus, I was only exposed to this particular idea for the first time.

I ask you to consider in your prayers, if you will, a person who I do not know, but is in desparate need of God's touch. Annamaria is her name: she is a 26 year old woman from Romania, now in a United States hospital. She just found out about the terminal nature of her cancer, and she has been told she has very few remaining days. Her family in Romania, who is hosting Courtney, is in absolute shock and dismay now. To find out more about the situation, check out this page.

Lastly, I leave you with some pictures, which attempt to depict the beautiful nature of God's creation:

al-Azhar

To my wonderful friends and family:

I am sorry for the lack of updates! Things have been quite crazy here lately, and unfortunately I will not have time to elaborate much on this post. One big event of the week was a meeting with Muslim students and a high-ranking administrative dude at al-Azhar University. Beforehand, our director made it clear that meetings such as these between Christians and Muslims in an academic setting simply do not happen, but through his superb connections, we were able to meet with students from this prestigious, original school of Islamic studies. The first part of the meeting was somewhat irking, for the higher-up guy skirted each and every tough issue and question that was raised. The time I spent with the actual students was redeeming in that we were able to get down to the polemic issues of politics and religion, which though are hard and uncomfortable to dialogue about, bring about a certain mutual understanding of where the other side is coming from.

Few things could have prepared me for the nonstop go-go-go nature of this semester in Cairo. Anyone who knows me might suspect I value downtime... ya know, that time of the day you sit in the couch and do absolutely nothing. Here, I have done that about twice. Napping during the day? Oh maybe once of twice. And staying up until 2 o-clock to study for 2 tests - in Arabic and Islam - the very next morning, has quickly become the norm.

What's the answer for this? Well, maybe I could go to Mount Sinai in the middle of the night and climb to the summit in time for sunset... sounds like a good idea to me! So I will. Tonight our group is traveling to the Sinai Peninsula, and should arrive at Mount Sinai at 2 AM. The idea is to get to the top in time for sunrise, where, so I hear, amazing sights can be seen and deep thoughts can be pondered. The rest of the weekend I will spend in Dahab. Upon return, I promise to write more (though I will not promise it'll be good!)

Salaam,

Tony

A day at the Pyramids

Here in Cairo, Ramadan is in full swing - it is the third day of the 30 day celebration / religious observance. 95% of the populace in Egypt is fasting away from sunrise to sunset, with no food, water, and - seemingly the most worrisome relinquishment for some - smoking. At the exact point of sundown, we can see the streets empty, as far as the eye can see (this is very rare in such a monstrosity of a city), as families gather together for the breaking of the fast. Afterward, people stream onto the streets to set off firecrackers, mingle with their friends, and just plain enjoy the gift of life. It must be a struggle for many, especially in the heat, humidity, and poor air conditions of the city to go without food and water for so long. That is why it is so important for us Westerners to flaunt it when we have it! Please excuse my sarcasm.

Today, the group of MESPers and I descended, just as fine tourists, to the grand Pyramids of Giza. Up until the recent silly internet vote to determine the "new" Seven Wonders of the Worlds, these Pyramids, built over 3,800 years ago stood as the lasting accomplishments of those strange ancient Egyptians. Unfortunately, that's all the historical context I can provide, for I have do not know anything more, to be honest, beyond the utter awe I felt standing in front of these giant wonderful structures. Ancient history is definitely not my forte!

I find no better way to describe it all than to show pictures, so here they are:

Below is one of the better shots I got of the Great Sphinx with a pyramid in the background:



Showing off the pyramid, I am!


One of the neatest things of the day was riding horses in the desert. Here is a shot from a distance of the three pyramids - all shaded by the lovely smog:


At the base of a pyramid:


Me struggling to survive on a horse (with the beautiful pyramids in the background):
It is worthy to note that I got tossed off a horse today. Well not really. The real story is that the horse that I had called Frank slowly slung me off the side and proceeded to roll half his body on me, as I was in a half-blurred, half-shocked, and half-scared-out-of-my-mind state. I know that equals three halves, but it was worthy of a three-halves description, darn it! Anyways, after one of the guides came up and saw me rolling around in the desert sand, likewise as my lovely Frankie, he presented me with a new trophy horse. He went by the name of Mustafa or something like that. Mustafa and I had a blast, trotting and cantering through the wild Arabian desert.

On a more serious note, I would suggest to those who have time (and those who do not) to peruse a recent post from my fiance, Courtney, who is studying / ministering / building things in Sighisoara, Romania. She discusses and reveals the real faces who have been burdened by the utmost poverty and destitution in a rather profound and personal way. Please check it out: http://many-miles-from-home.blogspot.com/2007/09/without.html

Salaam,

Tony

More politics, religion and dabka

Good day, my friends! I see that some have noticed my subtle, or not so subtle attempt to articulate political thoughts from my very limited perspective here in the Middle East. I never wish to insinuate I have a frame of great wisdom from having visited one country amongst many in the region (for only 2 weeks now). Fortunately, I have had the opportunity to hear stories and perspectives from a wide range of leanings, religiously and politically.

That being said, I wish to respond to a comment posted under yesterday's post. Granted, there have been some disturbances in this land caused by a multitude of factors through time. No one would deny that. The religious tapestry of the land adds an added level of pressure unseen anywhere else in the world. Yet, you would find not ONE soul in this very moderate country of Egypt that would conclude that their lives have or will not be impacted in some way by the American invasion of Iraq, for better or for worse. Most, I must say, for the worse. Egyptians, from rich to poor, from scholar to working man, are quite frankly scared out of their minds about Iran, and its potential to spread its influence throughout the Middle East. What seems to be lacking in the American evaluation of this region is a proper consideration of the variable factors that make this Middle East so complex.

This to say that the Middle East is a heterogeneous grouping of countries, all with different aims, goals and objectives. Some wish to continue the process of democracy, with greater transparency and free elections. Some regimes do not care for this. If America cared so much about peace and democracy, why do we find a flood of support for the Saudis, a regime which surely does not share such similar aims? America's concern with the Middle East seems to be with keeping the pot of water below boiling point. This is achieved by a myriad of ways, some of which include supporting non-democratic regimes, when it is the most politically feasible. Good old American pragmatism at its finest!

OK, so I haven't been angry all day. I'm not really angry here at all, lest I understand it may sound as such in my writing. Tonight, I had an incredible evening at the director's flat this evening. It was "guys night," where we invited 6 Muslim Egyptians to chat with us 12 Christian Americans. Very interesting. Our goal in the beginning of the evening was to explore the details of Muslim dating and marriages, for a greater understanding of the culture. It delved into religion, and off we went. Yesterday, I was reading a book about various Muslim beliefs as classified into groups on a continuum - from radical extremists, to traditionalists, to modernist, to secularists. These guys all fell on the modernist side of the scale, for their beliefs of the woman's role and the literal interpretation of the quran led me to believe. So I asked them a question about extremists: whether they had met them and how prevalent they were. The response surprised me: only 3 of the 6 had had substantial encounters with them, and it was strong in their relaying of the stories that it was a sect of Islam they wished to distance themselves with. It is the extremists and fundamentalists, they said, that gave a bad name to Muslims by their misinterpretation of the holy books and free latitude to create their own laws and fatwas. Though I have yet to delve into an intense study of Islam, I have already seen some of the direct verses that these friends pointed out condemning such usage of scripture. The evening concluded by exchanging phone numbers and addresses. I hope to see some of them again!

In other news, I danced tonight. Stop laughing... I'm for real! I signed up for lessons to learn dabka, a distinct Palestinian style of dance. The teacher is legit... a Palestinian who works at the embassy here in Cairo. Communication is a bit difficult for he knows little English. But the 12 of us all laughed and dabka'd our way through the night, with much delight. I couldn't believe that, by the end of the night, I perfected the simple routine. Anyone who knows me acknowledges of lack of rhythm and soul. But not tonight...

Salaam,

Tony

My soapbox!

For me, yesterday was a most reinvigorating day, intellectually speaking. I have not been thrown in to the academic grind yet, nor did I think I was ready for it. But hearing from 3 marvelous speakers, who spoke about varied subjects from Islamic movements in the Middle East to the question about Iran, got my mind ready to delve in the political, sociological, and cultural questions I have so long waited to ask. Considering the transitional, almost-chaotic situation over here right now, it is hard to believe I will find answers. In fact, it will most likely be in the continual inquiring about situations such as the Palestinian / Israeli conflict, the war in Iraq, and the nuclear issue with Iran that I will simply realize the feebleness of my own preconceived notions about what could possibly bring about the peace and stability that is so desperately needed in the Middle East.

Two of the speakers were from a political strategic think tank in Cairo that specializes in country, regional, and international issues. Because it is best to keep anonymity them due to political sensitives, I will say that "Speaker 1" did an excellent job of delivering an excellent overview of the overall situation of the Middle East... all in 90 minutes. This is a very hard thing to do, you see. He spoke at length to the specific fears Egypt holds as a result of the continuing change in balance of power, as a result of the ongoing war. The three top causes of the tension in the Middle East, in his opinion, is 1) the continuing struggle and battle against extremism and terroism, 2) nuclear proliferation with Iran's nuclear program, and 3) national conflict and tension (i.e., the Shi'a-Sunni divide). Iran, according to Speaker 1, is a state that has tremendous potential to assert a greater amount of power throughout the Middle East, much farther than the states it has already infiltrated, namely Syria and Iran.

Here in Egypt, I have the general sense that Iran is a real and serious threat. The proliferation of the nukes is only worrisome in as much as it provides regional leverage. It also shows because Egypt is a solid Sunni state, while Iran continues to throw around its Shi'a weight. But that's just my opinion...

Speaker 2 talked about Islamic movements. The absolute diversity and range of extremism between the groups was something I never cared to consider. Like any range of groups, Islamic movements range on a continuum from peaceful to terroristic. The recent Islamist movement in secular Turkey can be seen as a tremendous outgrowth of the democratic process. It is a largely peaceful and civil movement. We all know who's on the other end of the spectrum, of course! The big question relating to these movements in the region seems to focus on the viability and coexistence of a healthy and open democracy along with a decidedly Islamic bend. Of course, this seems to be the million dollar question. I realize it to be a very naive and open-ended question for now.

I'm sorry to get on a soapbox for this post. I try to keep that to a minimum!

Till later,

Salaam (peace)

The Odd Streets of Alexandria

(Yeah, that's not me in the above picture. But I love the shot with the pillar and the sun and all...)

So two funny stories from the grand weekend in Alexandria...

First, I never thought I would be famous. But I was. Downtown in Alexandria, that is. As my friend Nate and I were walking towards the most incredible library I've ever seen, we were accosted by 4 guys, all seemingly in their late teens or early 20s. They wanted a picture with us! I was a bit confused as I first contemplated and assumed that it was I to take a picture of them. But nope, they wanted both of us with all of them in a picture together. So we did it, and all were happy.

It's always fun to encounter Egyptians who are excited to meet Westerners. I've often wondered why they would show such accomodation and charm to a people that represent a country responsible for causing such disturbance in the Middle East. The answer came as a surprise, then a "duh," as Dr. Holt explained in class a couple days ago. For because Egyptians perceive themselves as having little control over the political process here in Cairo, they likewise see Americans as totally disconnected from government in the West. Democracy is shaky here (that's all I can say), and citizens accept it. Disconnect soon ensues between the monstrosity of a government and its people.

Anyway, on the second story. While heading back to the train station to travel back to Cairo, I encountered a very sharply dressed middle-aged 30-somethin male in a suit, inquiring as to whether I may perform a simple task for him. My duty was to communicate via his cell phone with his "British doctor." I politely brushed him away, but he was very persistent. "OK," I say, "I can make a one minute call." I thought I could serve as a handy translater. Well little did it occur to me I would serve as no translator whatsover, for I still remain relatively clueless in the language of Arabic. Very confusing situation, it was.

So I get on the line with the "British doctor," and quickly find out what a bad option it was for me to say "yes." Now I could not understand neither the doctor nor the man for whom I was to translate. Eventually I picked up the question, "How is Ahmad?" (I guess, the name for the man I was making a call for). I ask him, I get a thumbs up. "Yes, Ahmad is good. Ahmad is doing OK. Ahmad is doing just fine. Ahmad is kwayyis!" And that was the conversation. And that was my encounter.

But yesterday was a hoot. Joel, Nate and I went and saw the a remarkable historic site in Alexandria. It was called the Catacombs of Kom el Shoqafa. This underground structure served as a burial site during the Pharaonic era. It was constructed in the first century, and in the Middle Ages was labeled one of the "Seven Wonders of the World." I was blown away to see how huge the place was. I could easily identify at least 50 spots intended for burial caskets. I also thought to myself... "Wow, is there any place in the world I can freely wander in such a neat underground, poorly lit, place and not be chased down by guards? Only in Egypt!" Unfortunately, I have no pictures. At the entrance, they took our cameras, perhaps for issues of national security. Ya know... we all have a problem protecting our old underground historical sites!

So that was Alexandria. Overnight, we had stayed in this crazy hostel that had little running water. Because we had no A/C, we were forced to leave the window open, resulting in a mass bug/flea/mosquito infestation, resulting in lots of bites!

Alexandria, like Cairo, is a city of contrasts, in many regards. A beautiful view of the Mediterranean was one block from our hostel, but the neighborhood itself was quite dirty and unkempt. Poverty seems to run rampant here as it does in much of Egypt. One of the challenges I look forward to this semester is zeroing on the root causes of such poverty: how it happens and what can be done to address it. Below I show some pictures from the street.


Below is a picture of my friend Joel and I at a monument called Pompey's Pillar. I, unfortunately, was not alerted as to the history of the place, but it had neat statue things.
This is the library that surpasses all libraries, anywhere. It had simply beautiful architecture. Though you cannot see the best, the library has glass squares vaulted at a slant, leading down towards the road overlooking the Mediterranean:
I really appreciate everyone who comments! Thanks so much! And thank you for reading this bloated post. I'll try to keep it down next time...

PS... now only 250 days, for someone pretty special to me's importance

A short break

Today I depart for Alexandria, right on the coast off the Mediterranean Sea, to spend a short weekend. I am very grateful for the chance to relax a little bit, considering the extreme busyness of my time in Cairo, so far.

Here are some recent pictures:



These were taken from various areas around Cairo. It is interesting When I return, I promise to update with more stories from the past week.

Ma'a salaama! (goodbye!)

Pictures!

So... I finally got some photos up! These were all taken from the amazingly fast paced week here in Cairo. The first one is the necessary shot of the historical pyramids of Giza, taken on the first day. Next, you will see a picture of a street of flats, where a middle-class Caironean might very well live. The third picture is from a marketplace, showing a very common crowded marketplace street. It is on this very street that you might concurrently see 5 toddlers running rampantly to and fro, a truck making its attempt of passage through a very narrow space, and a very quick guy darting around with a huge animal carcass slung over his shoulder. This is Cairo...

The last shot is my favorite. On the second night here, our group took a cruise along the Nile during sunset, and this is the gorgeous scenery seen all along the bank. It was a perfect night. Because it rains so rarely here, clouds are a rare sight. Sunsets such as these are a normal sight in the beautiful city of Cairo.

Right now I am so shot and tired from a long day. I hope to put in a long update tomorrow, for there was much excitement these past few days. It's officially the first day of school tomorrow, which means... first day of Arabic language class. Very anxious and excited about the opportunity to study this unique language, yet it was the part of the Middle East I was also most nervous about.

Finally, I would like to wish a very Happy 21st to my fiance, Courtney! Her big gift of the day? A long day of travel to the destination for her semester of study and mission work in Sighisoara, Transylvania, Romania. If interested you can find her blog at http://many-miles-from-home.blogspot.com/!

Smog, cats, and plain life in Agouza

Wow. I can barely keep up with the plain old-busy life here in Cairo that has slowly become the norm. Yesterday was a phenomenal day. Our group of 29 caught a brief glimpse of what being a Muslim entails, as we visited and participated in an Islamic service about 30 minutes away from home. Some brief observations from my sociological side:

My presuppositions and inherited images of a mosque's physical appearance were quickly blown away as I stepped inside. Instead of a huge, elaborate, and ornately structured building, this was an ordinary house of worship made from basic materials, built for both rich and poor; lower, middle, and upper class. In many ways it resembled a regular Evangelical church from back in America. Upon entering the worship sanctuary, I found numerous Muslims, some extremely devout, who were sitting upon the carpet, awaiting the start of the service and the ensuing prayers of the day. Without abandon, my friends and I joined them. Muslims continued to filter in until 2:00, which was the time of the beginning of service. By this time, many of my friends had made their way into the auxillary area outside - a place for overflow wherein Muslims can worship in the comfort of a 95 degree day. However, one friend and I decided to stick it out and see what it would be like to participate alongside these fine Egyptian men.

Although I could not understand one word, yes, not ONE word, it was an interesting and altering experience. To avoid making a blanket statement, I would venture to say that many Muslims are devout and consider religion / faith to be an extremely important part of their lives. As the time arrived for group prayers - a sight that may have been shown on Western television before - all believers stood together in unity (not by hands; here, Egyptians linked feet by their toes). As the priest called out prayers, believers would simultaneously rise and fall to their knees and touch their head to the floor in repetition. The sense of community triggered by this processing is actually quite riveting.

Disclaimer: I do not attempt to confuse people with my praise of certain aspects of Islam. I am simply pointing out certain qualities of the sense of community, triggered by certain aspects of unified worship, that are interesting and noteworthy contrasts from certain sects of Western religion.

Today, I did a lot of walking around the area of Agouza. A countless number of markets exist, and in order to know them better, groups of 2 of us were sent off with a map and a list of things to see and buy. Interaction is still very tough, but I am picking up small phrases such as shokran (thank you). I find it kind of silly, however, to communicate everything in English and sign language, to that climatic ending of "thank you" in Arabic.

In other news, the mangoes here are absolutely amazing. They are so, so soft and sweet. The mango nector produces at the local juice bars is just as good I cannot stress this near enough: you have not had mangoes until you've tried an Egyptian mango. Many apologies to my Cuban family and friends...

Tomorrow I will be joining some friends from the flat at the soccer fields. So I hear, it is like a local pool hall. An absolute hotspot, they say, and a perfect place to practice some Arabic.

I come across so many things I could write about, but always fail to remember them by this time of night. So I say goodbye for now. Shokran for reading...

At home in Abuza

Safe in Egypt, I am! It's been an interesting and exciting journey these past few days, all of which have whirled together and created a jet lag-aided fogginess. But I do know and remember a few things, all of which I list below in neat bullet form:

• My inquisition as to why 95% of Egypt's population lives along the Nile River was soon confirmed as we descended into Cairo. Everything that has not been urbanized and everything that is not on the Nile River is desert. Quite hard to turn this area into something productive.
• I live in a residence, which consists of a flat on the 7th level of an apartment building in a section of Cairo called Abouza. Six of us guys live in these luxiourious accomodations, comparatively, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 living rooms, and a really nice dining area. The adjoining balcony provides a great overlook of the town, and to the left you can see a bit of downtown Cairo. I'm really alright with all this...
• Already I have a great deal of admiration for the director of MESP, Dr. David Holt. His passion about the program, the students, and the staff is absolutely radiant. He is well respected by the students and it is clear he really knows his stuff about the Middle East.
• Today we got our first tour of Cairo. On the road towards the pyramids at Giza, there was a long stretch of road that bordered, on both sides, complete ranshacks: brick, border, and girders. These are mostly inhabited by Egyptians who formally lived in the South. They found the farming lifestyle to provide little sustainability, and thus moved to the giant urban area of Cairo in order to eek out some cash for their family.
• Related to this, we stopped at Giza Square, a local market, and saw firsthand the plight of the folks from the poorer side of Cairo. Our group saw amazing things I have never seen before such as men carrying giant animal carcasses over their shoulders, cars and trucks manuevering their way through the ally (yes, the ally that was home to the market), and little girls carrying baskets of fruits and vegetables on their head. As soon as I get picutres uploaded, I can elaborate a little further.

No worries, no cares for the next week... just getting aquainted to the scene in Cairo: its culture, its language and its magnificant and wonderful people. Hope to talk to you all again soon.

PS... Amazing as it is, I am typing this blog in the comfort of my flat. It's true! A wireless connection, never to be expected, I found, albeit a weak one!

On the ground, literally... in JFK

Here begins the penning of the next 14 weeks... from a nice little WiFi hotspot at JFK airport in New York. Apparently, they charge $10 a day for this stuff here, but I've found a nifty location outside the Northwest World Club... ya know, the one exclusively for the elite and bronze and gold and silver and platinum frequent fliers (of which I most definitely am not a part of). The catch is that I must sit on the ground, for that is the only place an AC outlet is located, as my laptop battery has conveniently stopped working.

I've never been to New York before, and I really feel like I'm being shorted on the whole Big Apple experience. But the airport is something else. Taxiing up the the gateway on my Northwest jet, I must have seen at least 10 different international carriers, all from different countries. Minneapolis' airport sole international airline? Icelandair, baby!

Many have asked if I'm nervous about this whole Middle East journey. My answer has been somewhere along the lines of "not really"each time. Yet I'm starting to feel the nerves kicking in. Part stems from the whole idea of meeting 28 new people, of whom I will be studying along with in Cairo. Another facet of my anxiety lies along personal lines: I will miss my family, friends, and of course, my fiance Courtney so greatly.

I don't believe however - and this is much subject to change as everything about my feelings and thoughts will be over these next weeks - that I will miss the the distinct ways of life produces by American culture. For quite awhile, I have desired to get away from this way and experience something quite different. The Middle East should fulfill this desire.

9 hours till the flight to Frankfurt, 23 hours until arrival in Cairo!

PS... I am still growing used to the blogging life. Little do I know still how much analysis and commentary should I infuse to the plain statements of what I am doing and where I'm going. Thanks for your patience as I try to figure it out!